Monday, September 2, 2013

How big is your wave?

August 30th, 2013. (My 19th birthday) Port Aransus, TX. 

What's that one quote that's like "I can't adjust the winds but I can adjust the sails"? Something like that. Same goes for surfing. Well, and life. 

For Labor Day weekend/my birthday, my dad and I took a daddy-daughter trip to Port Aransus, TX, located on Mustang Island. Port aransus is known for its fishing, not surfing, but surfing is what I wanted to do there. I wasn't expecting to see really any waves at all, since I've heard there weren't many on the Texas gulf. I rented a board anyway just to try. I've surfed in Kauai, Hawaii and St. Augustine, Florida this year already, Hawaii obviously having the best waves. I guess I never really thought about how different ocean waves are in different places. I mean it's all one ocean, right? This may sound kind of preachy, but I think ocean waves are like the trials in or lives. They're all different sizes and come in all sorts of forms, but it's up to us to either swim over them, or duck dive right through them, if they're that big. 

The waves in Port Aransus were pretty choppy and were all very close together, making it hard to catch one. A lot of times I got quite frustrated because I probably looked so foolish out there, only barely catching 10% of the waves. I was even starting to think we had just wasted our time and money (and gas) to come here. I didn't want to quit, though, because we were there and I had a board so I might as well keep trying. I met another blonde girl out there surfing, and we chatted for a little bit. I didn't get to know her that well, but she and I would say "take this one! Go!" And that's when I caught two or three decent waves. It's amazing what we can do with some support. After being out there for about 4 hours, I called it a day since I could definitely tell my face was getting fried. 

I went surfing again the next day. The waves were really rough and actually quite big, which made me excited at first. I took my board out and tried to catch some, but I felt like the more I paddled out, a giant wave would crash in me and push me closer towards shore, or I'd stay in one place. I didn't realize that there was a really strong current as well, pushing me closer and closer toward the pier. When these weird 13 year olds started flirting with me, or trying to I guess, I finally caught an AWESOME wave. (Thank you, Lord for that timing!) I wasn't up for long because the poles of the pier were right in front of me. I jumped backwards off my board to avoid it, but the wave still crashed on me, whacking me against the barnacle-covered pier. At that point my dad had come out in the water to come help me. My left foot was really stinging and I felt like something bit me. Nothing bit me, don't worry, but those barnacles are sharp! My foot was bleeding pretty bad, but not so bad to where I needed stitches or anything. 
It's not bad at all. I tried to clean off most of the blood before taking a picture to scare mom. 

I'm so thankful my dad came out there and helped me because if he hadn't, I would have continued to get smashed up against the poles of the pier and get cut up, especially since I had just swallowed a gallons worth of salt water and kept coughing. As I was resting, I was really frustrated with myself for not being a stronger swimmer/better surfer. I had been swimming all summer and had surf lessons, so I thought I'd be able to get right up and just go on these junk waves. My dad then reminded me of all my gifts and talents, and then pointed out in the ocean at the the other surfers that weren't catching many waves, either, including the more advanced surfers. "You don't have to be perfect at everything." Ugh my dad and his dang wisdom. 


The whole purpose of this weekend wasn't just to surf, it was to spend time with my dad. After my foot quit bleeding for the most part, my dad came out with me in the water, AWAY from the pier. We both had trouble fighting that current that kept pushing us back toward the pier, but it sure did help to have an extra hand of support. We really can't do it all on our own, no matter how much we want to or think we can. I know the basics of surfing, but I didn't have quite enough arm power for these weird waves in Port A, so my dad gave me an extra push. That extra push is really all I needed. Sometimes it's the only thing we need to get goin. The best wave I got that day was a small, junk wave, but there were a ton of fish riding the wave with me, which was something I've never experienced. And, I heard some little kids on a tube near me go "whooooaaaa!" as I rode that wave. That was a pretty cool feeling. This trip was not a waste. 

My dad and I both have to admit that Port Aransus is actually kind of a junky town, but we did get to go on a boat ride and see some dolphins. I took about 40 pictures of them, but they were always going back into the water and weren't decent shots. Of course it was when everyone put their camera away that the dolphins came even more out of the water and came closer to the boat. It's like they recognize the cameras, haha! So odd. 

I did capture a lovely sunset that night though. 
After capturing this, a dolphin popped out of the water, right in line with the sunset. Too bad I can't prove it. 

Luckily I did not run into any sharks in the water, but they were EVERYWHERE elsewhere. Take this one for example. Probably the most out of place decoration I've ever seen in an Easter-egg-colored ice cream shop. 
Sharks are everywhere, though. . . even out of the water. Watch out!

My dad and I with our cheesy tourist shirts (his was boring that day) and his interesting choice of sunglasses. Observe that burn line on my right hand...

Remember it's not about where you are and what you're doing, but who you're with! 
Accept support and be the support. 

*Happy Labor Day!*




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